Technical accuracy question

[Boomer06]

I have a question for all you technical archers. I have drawn a LE elk tag and feel confident in my setup. I am having trouble grouping my broad heads however and do not have the knowledge to understand why.
I am shooting a Hoyt 373. Weight is 65 lbs and arrow speed is 275 fps. With 100 gr practice tips my groupings are consistent and I feel my mechanics are solid. (grouping 3 of 3 almost every time from 50 yrds in a 10 in plate with a few groupings that were really tight). So I bought the strikers G5's and really struggle to get 3 out of 3 in the plate. It does not feel that there is any room for error and a slightly marginal release results in a miss that makes me question a 50 yrd shot. We're down to crunch time and I really need to feel confident in my ability to let it fly at 50 yrds. I'm shooting the Easton STepics 340 with a 9.4 gpi (what does gpi stand for, grains per inch)? Is my arrow weight wrong for my broad head? Or is it mental and I need to realize broad heads are not as forgiving and keep practicing? To really get tight do you need to switch the broad head with different arrows to find the truest combo? MAN I CAN"T WAIT FOR THIS HUNT!!! Sorry, momentary tension breaker for me.
I look forward to learning from you and will hopefully do you fellow elk hunters proud . Thanks
Brad

[alpinbowman]

it looks like you have some tuning to do first off you need to spin your arrows with the broadheads on to make sure the head doesn't wobble. than you need to make sure your bow is shooting decent holes trough paper with you field points. once you have done this then you take and shoot the BH(broad heads) and FP =(field points) together. Shoot the BH first then shoot a FP. If your BH hits right of the FP move the rest in small increments to the left, If your BH hit below the FP then slowly move the rest up. I mean 1/32" moves, a little can go a long way. Start this out at 20 yards than you can move back as you tighten the BH and FP. With a good spinning arrow and the proper spine you should find the sweet spot where the NH and FP group the same as far out as you want to shoot. And a good group at 50 yds should be around 5-6 inches consistently. Good luck on the tune and I hope you get a big one.

[6x6 bull]

Alpinbowman is right on the money with his answer. If any of the specs of your bow are slightly off the broadheads will show it. Make sure that the centershot and the nock set are in the right spot and then try to move the rest in small increments until you get both points hitting in the same hole. This might take awhile to do so don't let frustration get to you. Just remember that the 50 yard shot that seems so easy in the back yard is not nearly so easy when you add wind , moving animals, and the excitement of the hunt.

[sagebrush]

all the above respected ...

it sounds like your arrow spine is changing on you between a solid head and the mechanicals as A solid head will apply several times the inertial force on arrow spine that a mechanical will..causing much greater bend
and wobble in the arrowhaft during flight

Id say.. try some different arrows.. if your shooting carbons.. try a good alum...like easton 22 or 23 xxx
see if there is any improvement.

Are you shooting helical fletched arrows ? that solid head needs to SPIN... if your shooting straight fletch
that mechanicals like...well.. there you go...

for elk here in colorado we use BIG 4 BLADE MUZZYS.. BIG 4 blade SLICK TRICKS, OR WENSEL WOODSMAN
with a big elk you want good shot placement and you only need the arrow to penetrate at least half way in..
the broadhead will do the rest in short time.

[m gardner]

GPI means grains per inch, and 9.4 is a fairly heavy arrow which is good for elk. Sounds like you have some tuning or shooting form problems. If you can, find someone to watch you shoot. I shoot with alot of the smart kids and they keep me on my toes. The most common problem I've seen lately is torquing the release. Make sure your arms are straight and that you don't put any pressure on the release body after you draw. Just touch it with your finger to set it off. Follow through is another. I see many guys shutting one eye to shoot then pushing the bow out of the way or peeking around it to see the flight of the arrow. Open both eyes to shoot or train yourself to wait to hear the arrow hit to look for the hit. The bad thing about bad broadhead flight is that the arrow is not hitting point on which means you won't get as much penetration. If you have friends that shoot try some of their arrows, a heavier spine could help. Be sure they are long enough, you don't want to draw them off the rest. I personally won't shoot over 40 yards and my broadheads stay in a 3 inch circle at that distance. I shoot about 1000 arrows a month and I'm pretty good at it. A ten inch group is marginal. Add butterflies and you'll be lucky to hit the elk.
Mark