Best way to remove vanes and glue from shaft?

Aluminum shafts are easy cause you can soak them in a couple of different solvents and it wont weaken the shaft material like it will with carbon. It also depends on what was used to glue the vanes to your arrows. The easiest way Ive found for carbon shafts is to lightly cut them away with a knife being careful not to cut into the carbon material. Then before re-fletching them, use some denatured alcohol and a really fine grit sand paper (like 600-800) to lightly scuff the area the new vanes will be glued to.

Should've mentioned they were carbon shafts... #-o

The shafts l am using were "factory vaned" as l did not put the vanes on myself. So l dont know what kind of glue was used. The shafts are still in great condition, the vanes however have seen better days. l would hate to buy new arrows on the premise that the vanes are bad...

Has anyone had any experience with the Bohning Blazer jig with the 3* helical built in. l wanteched the youtube clip on how to use it and it seems simple, but the reviews from Cabela's and Bass pro's website are mixed, either people love it or hate it. Does anyone have one and what are your thoughts?

just scrape them off and re glue new vanes on. you don't have to get all fancy with sand paper or solvents with carbon.

I use a thing called the zipper or something to scrape off the vanes. I got it from cabelas

I then wash the shaft with plane water and dry them with a clean towel.

I have never had a problem with my vanes. and it doesn't matter what glue or vanes I use. They never come off!

I have both the Bohning jig and the Arizona EZ Fletch. Of the 2, I prefer the Arizona. I can refletch arrows much faster.

As far as vane removal, the good old razor knife has been working great for me. Once I've got the vane material itself off, I use some fingernail polish remover to soften up the remaining glue and plastic residue and it scrapes right off. After that, I use an alcohol pad to wipe off the shaft. Then a light buff with some super fine steel wool and I'm ready. I am a rookie at this and I can still do 1 dozen arrows, start to finish, in about an hour. It's a great activity when the weather sucks.

BTW, you should consider using arrow wraps. They make it even easier to clean up your arrows when you need to refletch and I've ever noticed a huge diference in my arrow flight.

Yeah l saw the arrow wraps... how are those applied to the shaft? Are they a shrink fit with heat?

"PhillyB" wrote:Yeah l saw the arrow wraps... how are those applied to the shaft? Are they a shrink fit with heat?

Most are roll on...Just have a mouse pad, this works best. With the wraps a little heat and they come right off...

Sweet... sunds easy enough

When purchasing a jig how do l know what degree helical l will want? Some are 3*, some 6*, left helical, right helical? Or should l look to go with a straight feather? What is the deciding factor on going with a helical or not? :-k

wraps look nice but don't shoot your arrows at the same spot

when you ruin one fletch you will have to replace them all and it can get expensive.

you want to get a zip strip, they are the easiest thing to take old fletchings off. But then you want to dabbed some acetone on a paper towel and scrub off the old glue, that way you get a good clean stick when you put the new ones on. The Arizona EZ fletch are easy, as their titles describe. But i have a hard time getting exactly what i want. I love arrow wraps, and about them flying the same is not true. Look at high end target shooters, and the majority shoot with Arrow wraps. 1- It throws some personalization on it, as well as some more color. 2- They make it easier to glue the new vanes on. You get a better adhesive to it. I love to use a Blitzenberg for gluing on vanes, you can change the helical and they are super durable and made out of all metal. They are more expensive but they do the job the right way.

I have a little carbide scraper that I use to sharpen knives and broadheads and it works to remove vanes too. It has a keen edge but enough of a negative rake so it won't bite into the carbon. It was made from an old milling insert from work (when the tip wears out it is discarded but the sides are still sharp), a 3/8 steel shaft and a file handle. I've had to make them for some friends who wanted to take it home. If you have a friend in the machine tool trades you may be able to get one.
Mark

Carbon Shafts...i take a knife and carefully peal old vane off without cutting the shaft up. Then I take acetone to it and get rid of all the glue. A little sandpaper to get a nice rough surface for the new glue to stick to and you are good to go.