Broadhead Tuning?

I've read a lot this year on broadhead tuning and have found many different methods from shooting bare shafts to "walk back" tuning to making rest adjustments until things group. Usually all I do is paper tune with field points and then make my sight adjustments with broadheads. I've never had difficulty grouping my broadheads if that's all I shoot, but when I switch back to field points my sights are off again. I'm realizing that this is keeping me from practicing as much as I would like because I don't want to mess with my sights too much.

I'm curious what steps you take to make sure your bow is shooting perfect?
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jarvis243
I used to just paper tune my bow with with field tips to make sure it is shooting straight then i would sight my bow in with broad heads and if field tips were hitting higher or lower in the off season i didn't worry about it as long as my broaheads were grouping well. Now i use G5 Montecs and my field tips hit exactly were my broad heads hit. The cool things about the Montecs is you can buy the practice broad heads and shoot them all year and not worry about ruining your hunting tips.
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IDHunter
Thanks for the reply.

I actually use the Montec G5 as well and love it. In years past my broadheads hit close to my fieldpoints but never right on. For some reason this year I am shooting several inches off between the two. I haven't worried about it because my broadheads group well, but it would be nice to be able to switch between broadheads and fieldpoints depending on where I'm shooting.
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BOHNTR
Read this guide......lots of good info here. Hope it helps.

http://www.redhawk-archery.com/bh-tuning.html
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IDHunter
BOHNTR,

Thank you very much for that link. It's by far the best information I've found on this subject. I'm excited to get out and put it to use.
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As long as my broadheads hit in line and aren't shooting left or right of each other from 20 to 50 yards I assume they are coming off the bow well. I don't need to move my rest. If the target tips and broadheads are hitting the same elevation all is well and I have my nock point right. I have had to mark my sights with two different settings (they all move at once) for left and right because my broadheads hit an inch to the left at 20 and accordingly out to 50 yards with this bow and the 100 grain G-5 Montecs I am using now. I've watched some of the local "experts" explain how they have "supertuned" thier bows and field points and broadheads hit in the same group. Then they procede to shoot 3 inch groups at 20 yards to prove it. If you are shooting well enough to notice a real difference in your point of impact and you aren't getting any lateral dispersion leave well enough alone and make a slight sight adjustment. You must shoot well enough so that your arrows are in real danger if you shoot more than one at a time at a spot. The last time I shot 2 arrows at 50 yards I cut the fletch off of the one in the target. That's how I know it's 2.5 inches left. Most of us are hard pressed to hit an 8 inch spot at that distance.
Mark
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chet
The article on creep tuning is something I have never thought about. Makes alot of sense!

I assume this is why you shoot better with a too-short of draw length than you do with a too-long of draw length.
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Most Good BROADHEADS COME WITH PRACTICE BLADES... SO THEIRS NO DIFFERENCE BETWEEN PRACTICE & LOADED HOT...
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