shooting-- broadhead vs field tips

BHs will definitely fly different than FPs, but they shouldn't be THAT far off. Not sure to tell you what is going on....maybe try a different brand of broadhead? What kind of fletching are you using? I have have heard that attaching the vanes in a right hand or left hand helical pattern helps to stabilize broadheads. I am using the 2" Blazers with RH helical. I am shooting 125gr Slick Tricks. I can get a decent group, but not quite as good as I can with the field points.
I don't like to try and shoot groups when practicing with broad heads though.....my vanes have paid the price in the past. Instead, I just put a rifle target on my Block and shoot at each bullseye. As long as I can hit each bullseye, I am confident that I COULD shoot a tight group.

My Tekens fly exactly like my field tips...

using the short blazer vanes, first time for that as well....i think im going to try a pack of the 100 grain 4 blade muzzy broadheads and see how they fly tomorrow, i mean my groupings at 40 and 50 yards are in a paper plate, but i dont like the consistency im having vs field tips, cause im pretty dead on with those.

My father had the same problem with the same brand of broadheads. I'm not going to tell you what brand you should try ( I don't want to be a commercial) but definately try another brand fixed or mechanical. Remember, a lot of times you get what you pay for.

go check out eastonarchery.com/download/software and go through the tunning guide. sometimes shooting a bh versus a fp makes your shooting seem worse because the imperfection in your set up was so minimal that it was not noticed before.... I had the problem with my muzzy's but knew that i had not bh tuned it with all my new changes. in less than a half hour they were back to shooting to how i expected them to....

poor broad head flight is caused by out of tune bow. It can be magnified by certain broadheads.
This is why the expandable broadheads were invented. Most people are either too inconsistent or dont know how tune their bow/arrows properly. yes arrows need to be tuned also.

Here is a video link of my 50 yard groups. I wanted to test my broad head vs field tip flight. I was shooting one field tip and one broad head at each dot. After the test I went ahead and sighted in the field tips to impact the center of the dot. I always shot the broad head fisrt so I dont end up with torn fletchings. The broadhead I was shooting was a fixed blade wackem.

that set up ended up taking a 28 1/2" buck the next day on opening morning!!

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yeah i guess i would probably fall under the inexperienced archer that doesnt know how to properly tune his bow...ive been shooting for over ten years but i always just did the standard adjust your sights and your done. but i also never used to take shots over 25 yards so i never had any issues.....now that im shooting 50 yards apparently it is a problem, im going to try to muzzy 4 blade in the morning and see if it makes any difference at all

"steve8410" wrote:yeah i guess i would probably fall under the inexperienced archer that doesnt know how to properly tune his bow...ive been shooting for over ten years but i always just did the standard adjust your sights and your done.

Im not sure if you are trying to be sarcastic or not. I was not bashing you in any way with my post. Just trying to help. I will say this if you are having a problem with a three blade you will still have the problem with the four blade. Root of the problem is still there.

My suggestion would be before you waste your money on the four blade heads. take one arrow and take the fletchings off it. Then shoot it bare shaft through paper at about 4-5 yards. If you get a tear you dont have a tuned setup. If it wont get a bullet hole with a bare shaft you are over compensating with the fletchings on the back with your field points. It is then getting magnified when you attach a broad head on the front.

So if you dont want to re tune your bow go back to 4 inch fletcings. This will over come your tune problem and your muzzy's will fly better but not perfect! If you want to see how good of groups you can get with a broad head then pick your self up a pack of grim reapers or wacem's and they will fly just like your field tips do now! But this is compensating for your problem. I like to fix my problems!

no not being sarcastic, just being honest, that is all i have ever done....as far as knowledge of tuning a bow i have zero experience...and i guess thats a bad thing but i never had any issues before with just sighting in at the distances i was shooting.

you didnt mention what to do if it does shoot without a tear? ill go down to the range tomorrow and talk to them for some guidance and see where that gets me

thanks for the input

if it gets a bullet hole with a bare shaft between 4-5 yards then try it again at about 15 yards. I like to always test my tears at different yards. If you only test them at one distance say 2 yards like most shops you will find when you go back it isnt or wasnt set up properly. shops would go out of buisness if they tried to take the time to actually set a bow up like I do. Most just want your 40 bucks and say here you go I got it to bullet hole.

also one thing that could be causing your broad heads to fly inconsistent is your arrow. All the top shooters I know all tune their arrows. Meaning they match up the arrows dynamic spine. they want all their arrows flexing the same way out of their bows. this is done several way.

one is get a hooter shooter and shoot one arrow into the target at say 30-40 yards then take every arrow after that first arrow and twist the nock clockwise and shoot it with a different cock vain pointing up or until the second arrow hits the first arrow hole and repeat.

two "this is what I do" is shoot bare shaft through paper. get first arrow to bullet hole then twist nocks on the second arrow until it also shoots a bullet hole, and repeat. Then fletch them up.

three is number all your arrows 1-12 on the vane. then go out to 50 or so yards and put a piece of paper with a dot on it. mark and label your impact points with the number on your arrow. After a while of shooting you will see a pattern if you are a good enough shooter. then fix the arrows that dont meet up to your expectations by rotating its nock.

last ive heard if you get an arrow spine tester you can actually locate the stiff side of your arrow and attach your cock vane to it. ive never tried it so I cant comment on that one. i have always liked to test the dynamic spine under load.

All of this takes time, but if you do it it will shrink your groups about 30% or better. you will also have great arrow flight and beat half the shooters out their with less practice.

good night!

I'm done messing with my bow for now. I actually just built a new string for it and put it on while I was responding to your post. I will be going through all the bs i stated above tomorrow. hopefully by the weekend ill have it all dialed in so I can shoot one of the beasts Ive scouted up.

I hope it's ok to post this link. It is very simplified and will give you the basics on how to tune your broadheads. The minute you put your broadheads on they will amplify any slight tuning problems you might have. The key is to make very very slight adjustments, and only one direction at a time. If you go to big you'll be pulling your hair out. This method also assumes that you have the correct spine on your arrows. If you don't, you will never get your broadheads to fly well. If your not sure about your arrow spine, I'm sure some of us can help if you post up the details of your set up.

Good Luck!

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=539460